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Installation of the 3Z-6H/C Hot/Cold Stem for Valley Faucets

Before

Test Project before

After

Test Project after

I’ve used these repair kits several times over the years with good success, most recently this week. Here are some tips on how to make this a great DIY project. First of all, if you haven’t used the cut off valves under the sink to shut off the water, you would be well advised not to disturb them. The seals and packings in mine are completely fossilized from years of exposure to hard water. Turning the water off here will probably cause leaks and a second repair job. I always turn the water off at the water meter when servicing faucets. Next, if you have hard water and the existing faucet valve stems have been in place for several years, lime scale build-up will keep you from being able to remove them from the valve body with your fingers like the video shows. After you have removed the handle and the nut that retains the stem assembly, reinstall the handle (without the nut). Pull up on the handle to remove the stem assembly, like using a corkscrew on a wine bottle. You may have a similar situation with the rubber valve seat and spring. (I’m pretty sure that our faucet drips are caused by the rubber valve seat being frozen in place by lime scale. This makes it unable to slide in the bore and maintain pressure against the stem base.) If you use an allen wrench or other metal tool to remove the rubber seat and spring, be careful not to gouge the cylinder bore where the seat locates. For the valve to work properly, the interior surfaces of the valve body where the rubber seat and the stem o-ring locate must be must be free of lime scale and smooth. I have used a mild acid solution (vinegar?) and a bottle brush to accomplish this. Then I neutralize everything with baking soda and rinse thoroughly with water (saved from before I cut the water off). I wouldn’t recommend trying to remove lime scale with abrasive like emery paper. It will be a challenge get the rubber seat and its spring into its bore. I had success by sliding them onto a slender stylus like a scribe (or even a piece of rigid wire) and inserting the end of the stylus into the seat bore. You can then slide the spring and seat into place together. Press on the seat to make sure it slides freely in its bore. If the valve body interior has been cleaned, you can insert the valve stem like the video shows. Note that you don’t need to heavily torque down the nut that retains the stem in the valve. It has nothing to do with sealing against water pressure. The o-ring on the stem accomplishes this. If you torque down the nut too much it will make the handle operation too stiff. I hope this helps

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